Fabric finishing system



Jan. 16, 1940. s. COHN ET AL FABRIC FINISHING SYSTEM Filed Feb. 24, I938 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR Samue/ Calm ATTORNEY Jan. 16, 194p.-

S. COHN ET AL FABRIC FINISHING SYSTEM Filed Feb. 24, 1938 i Q h S S 1 I III 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 Samue/ Co/m Jules G. Wa/fer ATTORN EYS Jan. 16, 1940. s. COHN ET AL FABRIC FINISHING SYSTEM Filed Feb. 24, 1938 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 IVENTORS Samu e/ Co/m Ju/es & Wa/fer ATTORNEYS W1 Jan. 16, 1940. s. COHN ET AL FABRIC FINISHING SYSTEM Filed Feb. 24, 1938 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 INVENTORS Samue/ Cohn .fu/es G. Wa/zer WM ATTORNEYS Patented Jan. 1940 PATENT OFFICE FABRIC FINISHING SYSTEM Samuel Oohn and Jules G. Walter, New York,

N. Y., assignors to'Samcoe Holding Corporation, New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application February 24, 1938, Serial No. 192,310

21 Claims; (01. 26-56) This invention relates to a method and app ratus for continuously finishing traveling webs of textile material and is especially applicable to the finishing of tubular fabric. This application 6 is a continuation in part of application, Serial No. 691,522, filed September 29, 1933, for System for treating fabrics.

An important object of the invention is to provide uniformity and certainty in the characteris- 10 tics of the material that are afi'ected by the fin ishing treatment. More specifically, a purpose is to produce a flattened knitted. fabric tube conforming accurately to the desired width and free from excessive or irregular longitudinal. or transid verse stretching or extension.

An ancillary object is to regulate and control the longitudinal extension of the fabric with relation to the transverse distention oi the fab L ric tube and the shrinking or other effects of iii} steaming and other finishing operations, providing with accuracy a flattened tube of the the sired width having the proper degree of exten 'sion in both directions.

In attaining these objects an arrangement is providedior automatically maintaining a fixed relationship between the over-all speed of the tinishing apparatus and the possibly variable rate of feed of material to the apparatus; and this is accomplished without changing the speed relatiom \lili ship between successive treatment stages operating at different speeds. Similarly, means are provided forpropelling the fabric at different rates of speed during different parts of the finishing treatment to produce the proper relationship between 13 b the longitudinal stretching of the fabric, its trans verse distention and the effect of the processing, together with means for adjusting such latlonships to different treatment conditions.

it!) A system has likewise been provided for continuously finishing and rolling up the fabric mp plied in an endless web and for severing the web at selected points, removing the fabric roll and starting the succeeding roll without stopping the 46 machine.

Further objects will appear from the iollowing description taken in connection with the accompanying drawings in which,

Fig. 1 is a diagrammatic view of one form of so the apparatus in elevation;

Fig. 2 is a schematic view of said form showing the relationship between the drives for the various parts and the controls therefor;

' Fig. 3 is a. view similar to Fig. 1 showing a modified form;

Fig. 4 is a plan view of the form shown in Fig. 3;

Fig. 5 is a side elevation of a finishing machine of the type shown in Fig. 1;

Fig. 6 is a longitudinal sectional view of such 6 machine taken on line 6-6 of Fig. 7;

Fig. 7 is a sectional. view taken on line l,-'l of Fig. 5;

. Fig. 8 is a transverse sectional view on line 8-8 of Fig. 5 showing the principal parts of one 01! 10 the steaming devices;

Fig.9 is a fragmentary plan view of one of the steaming devices; a

Fig. 10 is a sectional view thereof taken on line iii--ill oi Fig. ll; 35

Fig. 11 is a side elevation of a portion of the machine showing the change gear device for ad justing longitudinal tension in the fabric;

Fig. i2 is a sectional view thereof taken on line iL-lt of Fig. 11; so

Fig. 13 is an enlarged longitudinal central sectional view oi the wind-up and arbor changing arrangement Fig. ii is a similar view illustrating the changing of rolls; as

Fig. 15 is aside elevation oi the propeller and spreader construction;

Fig. 16 is a perspective view of a simplified spreader arrangement; and

Fig. 17 is a perspective view illustrating the apso preach of a seam to the finishing rollers.

What is known as the conventional finishing operation on fabrics consists of removing distortions and wrinkles, establishing the fabric in a predetermined, uniform width. Finishing rollers pull the fabric off from a fiat spreader, by which latter the fabric is held distended laterally, and steam is applied to the fabric while on the spreader. In such methods there has been no driving control of the longitudinal tension on the fabric, and the fabric is taut at all times while on the spreader.

Under this method cl finishing the fabric is advanced first in flat form and then in oval or'circular form; after which it converges into fiat form again, being always distended laterally. Steam is applied to the fabric after it has been distended in tubular form, and preferably both before and after such distention, after which the fabric is led to a pair of finishing rollers while the tube is in flattened condition. Steam is applied to the fabric from both above and below, so that both sides of the flattened tube or fabric are uniformly steamed. 4

with the present system and apparatus the u fabric is propelled at the point of its tubular distention, and also in the flattened condition by the finishing rollers, and the speed of travel of the finishing rollers can either be decreased or increased in relation to the speed of propulsion when the fabric is distended in oval or circular shape, so that the longitudinal tension on the fabric can be controlled during the finishing operation.

Preferably the finishing rollers are operated somewhat more slowly than the propelling means which act on the fabric in advance of the finishing rollers, so that the shrinkage which takes place in the fabric during the steaming operation may be compensated for by an excess delivery of fabric at the place of initial propulsion. This can also be compensated by propelling the fabric faster at the initial point of propulsion.

The fabric is therefore distended laterally and at the location where it is distended steam is applied to the fabric between the propelling means and the finishing rollers and the longitudinai'tension on the fabric is controllable where the steam is being applied. It is not absolutely necessary that the fabric be steamed before it reaches the propelling means, but it is a decided advantage to steam the fabric before it passes through the propeller because the initial steaming operation allows the fabric to be immediately opened or distended laterally beyond the final width desired, so that after the fabric travels over the propelling means the desired lateral distention andlongitudinal tension can be established for the fabric and after it has passed the finishing rollers and is wound up, it attains and retains the final and permanent width and length.

Generally the fabric in dry form and preparatory to the finishing operation is narrower than theultimate width because the fabric in the dyeing and scouring operations revolves in a dyeing tub for several hours in rope form, and it becomes attenuated, which decreases its width. Thereafter the treating and drying operations while removing wrinkles do not necessarily expand the material to its full width. Consequently, the fabric after the preliminary treatments and drying operation is usually narrower than the ultimate width when it is finished. Heretofore, when the fabric has been placed over a spreader to undergo the finishing operation, it was stretched laterally but there was no control of the longitudinal tension and therefore when the desired width was attained the fabric was not in what might be called its natural condition, and the tendency to shrink still existed to a greater or lesser degree, depending upon how near to the ultimate width the fabric was when in its dry condition prior to the finishing operation. This system, for example, has taken fabric which under the old methods had been finished to a given width, running four yards to the pound, and which could not be finished with fewer yards to the pound due to the tension on the fabric as the finishing rollers pulled it of! the spreader and has finished the same fabric in the present machine at the same width so that it ran three and onehalf yards to the pound, which was a more desirable condition and caused the cloth when made up in a garment to maintain its width and length.

This was due to the fact that when the fabric was intermediately propelled and spread to a certain width, the longitudinal tension was decreased by decreasing the tension lengthwise 'of the fabric and preventing the latter from being drawn too taut.

By initially distending the fabric into form and then propelling it either in flat or extended form and then laterally distending the fabric again and passing it through the finishingrollers and steaming it at one or two points of lateral distention the dimensions of the fabric are completely controllable; and, especially if there is a double steaming operation, the fabric is uniformly finished to a width and length which it will persistently retain when made up into garments.

- Under the old method referred to above the fabric is finished for the purpose of removing the wrinkles and to establish a width by making several runs on finishing machines; but the longitudinaland lateral proportions of the fabric were not so controlled as to cause the fabric to retain its final width and length. To offset this the garment manufacturer generally cuts his garments so as to allow for substantial shrinkage before the garment reaches the consumer and alsoafter it is washed by the consumer. Knit goods finished according to the old method tended to shrink considerably after washing, whereas fabric finished under the present method is initially distended ,and is subjected to tension to remove the wrinkles; it is opened to its full tubular proportions; the fiattened portion of the fabric is wider than the ultimate or final width; and the light longitudinal tension, regulated and controlled, causes the fabric to converge from its tubular shape to the flattened shape loosely, both in width and length, in which conditionthe fabric is steamed. The fabric is thus enabled to shrink and establish what may be called its natural proportion in width and length and while in that conditon it passes through the finishing or pressing rollers. Fabric thus treated will hold its dimensions and when manufactured into garments it can be cut into exact fitting garments which will hold their shape afterwashing.

As has been said above, most fabrics prior to the finishing operation, are narrower than the utlimate or finished width desired, so that in the previous method described above, when the fabric was spread to width on the fiat spreader, the tension in the fabric was greatest in the center so that when it passed through the finishing rollers the wales at the sides of the fabric were much closer than in the center.

Where the fabric is passed over a, propeller as shown, it is uniformly spread to tubular form and width and it is then allowed to assume its fiat form naturally and uniformly and not forcibly as with. the ordinary fiat spreader. In the present case the fiat spreading member is not held in the bight of the finishing rollers. As a result, the wales of the fabric are uniform throughout its width.

Another object of the present finishing method is a saving in labor in the operation, of the machine because by proper manipulation and steaming of the fabric, such fabric as rayon can be efiiciently finished on the present machine by one passage through the machine at approximately twice the speed of each single finishing operation in previous machines. The reason rayon fabrics have heretofore been finished slowly and in two separate runs was due to the fact that after the initial or first run through the machine the width was necessarily narrower than the desired ultimate width, as otherwise the fabric would tear.- In the present machine and under the present method the initial steaming operation,

followed by a gentle expansion of the fabric to II its proper tubular proportions, followed by propulsion, permits the handling of this type of fabrio'much faster than heretofore, and the use of a double steaming operation in one run of the fabric through the machine.

In the present machine the fabric dimensions are controllable during the steaming operation and therefore the machine is adapted to handle all types of tubular knit fabrics which may vary greatly in their elasticities. Two pieces of knitted fabrics, however, both made from the same type iii of yarn but knitted on different cylinders and intended to be knitted to the same final width, may vary greatly in their elasticities. Variations in elasticity are also present in different types of yarn so that it is necessary to adjust the tension in various fabrics in the finishing operation to attain the desired results.

Any type of frame structure may be used for mounting the working parts of the machine and in the drawings there is shown a simple form of frame composed of several tubular uprights I connected by angle metal beams 2 near the top and bottom to form a rigid support for the several parts of the machine. The fabric passes first over an idler roller 4 (Figs. 1 and 5) which is arranged crosswise of the machine with its top in the plane in which the fabric travels through the machine.

A primary or first steaming device is arranged to receive the fabric after it passes over the roller 5 and to apply steam to the fabric while distended laterally in fiat form. After passing through this initial steaming device, the fabric then passes over a part of the propelling device which opens e fabric or distends it into oval or circular arm a (i also propels the fabric. The fabric t-..en passes through a second steaming device, the fabbeing flattened as it leaves the propelling device and while passing through the second steaming device. After passing through the second steaming device, the fabric in flattened condition, passes through the bight of the finishing rollers and in this flattened condition it may be cooled or sprayed by an air blast and then wonnd upon a mandrel to form a roll in final or finished condition.

As stated above, the initial steaming device may or may not be used according to the ct aster of the work. it is preferred to subject the fabric to the steaming operation both before and t ter the passage of the fabric over the spreader propeller and the machine will be described as so constructed and operated without int-end ing to limit the invention thereto, except insofar as some of the claims may be definitely limited thereto.

The steaming devices are preferably similar to each other except for the position of the steam inlets and. a description of one steaming device will sufilce for both.

In the embodiment disclosed in Figs. 3 and i the frame 350 carries a series of suitably selected and spaced finishing treatment devices. In the specific embodiment shown these comprise devices for initial steaming, cooling, second steaming, cooling, and pressing, followed by the final cooling and wind-up arrangement. The steaming devices each consist of an enlarged steaming tube 35! extending transversely beneath the fabrlc path and provided at its top with a suitable steam outlet such as slot 352 located directly below the fabric. Tubes 35! are connected at one end to a steam feed header I95 and at the other end to a steam outlet header I91.

Each steaming device is preferably followed by an arrangement for subjecting the fabric to oooling or spraying, as by a blast of cool air.

Each cooling device may consist of a transverse air pipe 353 mounted on frame 350 and connected to a suitable source of air under pressure. The air is applied to the cloth by a suitable nozzle as by providing a longitudinal slot 354 in the upper side of pipe 353 having a flat nozzle 355 extending upwardly to a point adjacent the fabric and across the entire width thereof.

The fabric is conducted over the steaming and cooling devices in suitable manner as by passing it over roll 4 and thence over a spreader 356 connected to propeller shoes 35! held in spaced posi, tion by cross bar 358. Each shoe 351 is provided with convex rollers 359 registering with the peripheral groove in a propeller roll 360 whose spindle 351 is journaled in header 362 mounted for transverse adjustment on rods 363 connected to frame 350. Each spindle 35l carries at its lower end a worm gear 364 driven by a worm 355 on worm shaft 366 journaled in frame 350, the worms 365 being threaded in opposite directions to impart to the propeller rolls 360 the necessary direction of movement for advancing the margins of the i'ahric lvi'.

The propeller shoes 35? carry suitable spreader wires till engaging a suitable cross piece 368 normally located in the bight of finishing rollers 83.

The spreading and propelling apparatus in this form is 1 p porterl by the interengagement be- 11ers its and the propeller rolls 360, i the engagement between cross piece 368 and rolls initial steaming and cooling devices :re'ierebly located beneath spreader 356 wh e fabric is transversely distended, and th t. second steaming and cooling devices are positioned,beneath the spreader Wires llii'l. The fabric 1 sses from the finishing rolls 83 over the final cooling device ill) to the wind-up device; and the method of driving, controlling and operating these ices is described hereinafter in connection with the other embodiment of the invention.

such other embodiment, illustrated in Figs.

' g device and over roller i is the double steam operation inll to the propeller 8i and guide roll t is d, or sprayed and cooled, under the action of an air blast from the blower 85. it is then WOllllld up on the final roll 26 over the driven delivery roll lit.

in arran the steaming device includes means for delivering steam to the fabric below its plane or to the under layer of the fabric, and in addition, means for delivering steam above the plane of the fabric or against the top layer. Two headers or steam boxes E80, lBi are arranged at opposite sides of the machine, which are fed by the feed pipe as will be hereinafter ex plained. These headers are shown as elongated and cylindrical in shape and disposed parallel to but outside the path of the fabric. The headers are connected by a plurality of cross tubes I82 of any desired number, five such tubes being illustrated in the drawings. The bores of these tubes are in open communication, each at one end with the header I80 and at the other end with the header l8! so that steam from the headers travels through the tubes and against the fabric. The

' wherever the used steam is to be discharged.

This blower creates a suction in the pipe I81 which is connected with the bottom of the hopper I84 for the purpose of conveying away steam after it has served its purpose by acting upon the traveling fabric.

Above the plane of the fabric we have shown another pair of headers I88, I89 also disposed outside of and parallel with the plane of the fabric. The tubes I90 extending across between these headers each have one end in open communication withone of the headers and their other ends in open communication with the opposite header so that steam may flow from the headers into the tubes, the major portion of the steam being consumed in .the manner hereinafter described. These tubes I90 are disposed in a plane just above the plane of the fabric and are adapted to discharge steam downwardly against the top layer of the fabric.

Means associated with the tubes I90 prevent any precipitated liquid from dripping from the tub-es onto the fabric as it is desired to apply only the steam and not precipitated moisture against the fabric. For this purpose strips of metal I9I are shown extending upwardly within the tubes I90 and surrounding the steam discharge slots I92 of the tubes. These strips form dams so that steam can pass downwardly through the opening or slots I92 between the vertical walls I9I but any moisture precipitated within the tubes will be damned by the walls I9I and will be prevented from passing out through the discharge slots I92 of the tubes. Steam entering the tubes I90 from the headers I88, I89 travels through the bores of the tubes, passes over the dams or strips I9I and then flows downwardly through the slots I92 onto or through the fabric.

Any of the steam which is condensed into liquid within the tubes will be prevented from flowing through the slots I92 by the walls I9l. Apertures I93 are arranged in the tubes I90 beyond the discharge slots I92 at each side of the tubes for discharging any precipitated liquid from the tubes, this liquid being discharged beyond the side margins of the fabric into the hopper I 84 in order that the liquid shall not come into contact with the fabric. There are guards I99 projecting downwardly from the several tubes and arranged between the slots I92 and the discharge apertures I93 which serve to prevent liquid which passes through the apertures I98 from running along the tubes and getting onto the fabric. The blower I85, in addition to removing the used steam, tends to create a definite path of travel of steaming device'are arranged in vertical planes which are disposed between the vertical planes in which the tubes of the upper steaming devices are arranged. This is for the purpose of obtaining a more even distribution of the steam while acting on the fabric.

Steam is supplied to the headers as follows. The pipe I90 leading from any source of supply connects with an inclined pipe I98, one end of which is connected with the upper header I88 at the left end in Figure 5 and its opposite end is connected with the header I of the lower steam device at the right side in Figure 5. At the other side of the machine there is a feed pipe I91 which connects with an inclined pipe I98.

One end of the latter is connected'with one end of the upper header I89 and the other end is connected with the oppositely disposed end of the lower header I8I on the same side of the machine. Steam is thus supplied to the upper headers at ends oppositely disposed and likewise to the lower headers. This causes an equal distribution of the steam to the several tubes connected-between the headers.

The next branch of the machine which operates on the fabric is the spreader and propeller. The spreader is adapted to lie inside the tubular fabric which travels over and around it, the spreader being supported and the fabric propelled byexterior rollers. The spreader includes a frame I99 (Figs. 6, 15) having cross rollers 200, "I arranged in lower and upper pairs. There is a lower roller 202 mounted in the frame of the machine arranged to lie outside the fabric and adapted to press against the fabric and against the two lower rollers 200 of the spreader. There is also an upper roller 209 journaledin vertically sliding bearing blocks 204, and this roller I thereover, by cooperation of the exterior and interior rollers.

There is a rod 205 bent in U shape and attached to the frame of the spreader, with the loop of the bow projected toward the front end of the machine. This bow also lies inside the tubular fabric and it extends from the spreader, through the steaming device 80 and to a point in advance thereof. This bow opens the fabric and holds it distended in the form of a flattened tube, as shown in Fig. '7, while the fabric is passing into and through the first steaming de--' vice 80. After the fabric passes through the primary steaming device it passes between small rollers 420 and I and then gradually opens up to an oval or circular form as it passes onto and over the spreading device described above, where it is also propelled.

There is another wire member 200 and this is also attached to the frame I09 of the spreader but it extends toward the rear of the machine or in the opposite direction to the member 209. The bow of this member extends to a point near the bight of the finishing rollers but it is not pressed into the bight of these rollers. As the fabric passes over the spreader it passes onto this wire member and gradually assumes a fist form as it approaches flattening rollers 922 and 428 preparatory to passing through the second steaming device and the finishing rollers.

The second steaming device 82 follows the spreading and propelling device and, as stated above, itmay be a duplicate of the one already described. The pipes'for delivering Jhestem 1' are-7,044

to the headers on the second steaming device are preferably disposed in reverse positions to those of the first device, as shown in Figure 5, in order that all portions of the fabric may be treated alike. As the fabric passes through the second steaming device it will be subjected to steam above and below so that all portions will be steamed the same as in the first steaming device.

From the second steaming device the fabric in the form of a flattened tube will pass through the bight of the finishing rollers 83 which also serve to propel the fabric. The finishing rollers may or may not be heated by interior means. The upper roller is pressed downwardly by means to be hereinafter described so that the rollers press the fabric between them.

The spreading action of the propeller M (in-- cluding the embodiment in Figs. 3 and 4) is adjustable and is carefully predetermined to give the proper expansion to the material sothat after the final steaming, finishing and cooling the desired final width will be attained. As the material is spread in width it tends to shorten in length and consequently the speed of the 'proller drive has to be accurately adjusted to the material to avoid excessive tension and similarly the tension between the propeller 8| and the final finishing rolls 83 is carefully adjusted to give the proper relation between width and length as desired in the final product.

Additionally a final control is exerted between the speed of the finishing rolls 83 and the windup at 28, the general operation of the finishing apparatus being to receive the material relatively narrow in width, to steam and soften this under slight tension and to then expand this on the propeller 8I to a total transverse periphery corresponding to a width in predetermined relation to the finally desired width. Then there is a slight narrowing under the tension between the propeller and the finishlngrolls 83 and a further slight narrowing between the finishing rolls and the wind-up rolls due to the tension and to the cooling.

After the fabric leaves the finishing rollers it passes, in flattened condition, partly around a roller 80 which is driven, and it is then wound on a mandrel I18. The latter has pintles engaging in the opposite inclined grooves 201 (Figs. 13, 14) of an extension bracket 208' of the frame. While the fabric is being wound on the mandrel the latter is in the position shown in Figure 13, so that the propelled roller 88 acts on the body of fabric and revolves it and the mandrel. As the body of fabric increases in size the pintles of the mandrel move along the grooves 201 and away from the roller 86. I

There are recesses 209 in the top of the bracket 208 to receive the pintles of an unfilled mandrel 2I0 ready for this mandrel to be placed in position to receive the fabric when the mandrel I18 is to be removed with the fabric wound thereon. There are downwardly extending grooves 2 in the brackets 208 which at the bottom communicate with the grooves 201. When the mandrel I18 has been filled by the roll or when a seam formed by the attachment of the ends of the strips of fabric require that the fabric be cut, then the mandrel I18 is moved out along the brackets 208 to the outer ends of the grooves 201 to shift this mandrel and its roll of fabric away from receiving position. The new mandrel H0 is then lifted from the notches 208 and its pintles are inserted in the upper ends of the grooves 2 so that the new mandrel moves down into engagement with the roller 80 ready to receive the severed end, of the fabric.

An arrangement may be provided for dropping the new mandrel 2l0 automatically into operative position when the filled mandrel I18 is withdrawn. A suitable construction for this purpose is illustrated in Figs. 4 and 13. In this embodiment, when mandrel I18 is shifted outwardly along grooves 201 its pintles fall into sockets I on rocker arms 402 pivoted at 408 to brackets 208, depressing arms 402 against tension springs 404 connecting extensions 405 on arms 402 with brackets 208, the engagement of stop lugs 400 with the bottoms of brackets 208 arresting the downward movement of sockets "I with the filled. mandrel I18 in convenient position for removal. Latch rods 401 extend from extensions 405 along the brackets 208 and pass through guides 408 on the-inner parts of the brackets into position across auxiliary grooves 2 when arms 402 are held in upward position by springs 404 during the filling of mandrel I18 as illustrated in Figure 13. In this position the new mandrel 2I0 is located in grooves 2II resting on the ends of latch rods 401 and the shifting of filled mandrel I18 into sockets 40I retracts latch rods 401 and automatically drops the replacement mandrel 2I0 into operative position.

After mandrel I18 is relocated a loop is formed in the fabric by reason of the fact that the fabric continues to move, the fabric is cut crosswise, and the end coming from the finishing machine is started on the new mandrel 2I0. The fabric coming from the machine will now wind on the new mandrel and the mandrel I10 with its roll of fabric may be lifted out of the brackets.

Preferably, the upper rollers of the propeller and the finishing rollers are pressed downwardly by resilientpressure and we have shown similar devices for both these upper rollers. The bearing blocks 204 (Fig. 7) in which the shaft of the roller 203 is journaled, are slidable vertically on one of the standards 1. Above these bearing blocks there are collars 2I2 adjustably fixed on the standards I; and these collars have brackets H3 in which are pivotally supported the angle levers 2I4, 2I5 At the left in Fig. '1, one arm 2 it of the angle lever 2 I 5 has pivotally connected with it a rod 2I1 around which is a coiled spring H8, and the other end of this spring acts on and is connected with a part of one of the bearing blocks. This spring is under compression and exerts a downward pressure on the bearing block to force one end of the roller 208 toward the roller 202. The lever 2I4 at the right of Fig. '7 has an arm 2I9 to which the rod 220 is pivoted, and the spring 22I surrounding this rod has one end pressing upwardly on the collar 222 fixed to the rod, and therefore pressing upwardly on the lever arm 2I9 and downwardly on one of the bearing blocks 204.

The arm 228 forming part of the lever 2i! extends below the pivot of this lever; and a short arm 224 of the lever 2|4 extends above the pivot of this lever. The arms 228, 224 are connected with each other by a. link 225 so that the levers on opposite sides move in unison.

There is a hand lever 226 connected with an arm of the lever 2I5 and this hand lever when swung downwardly serves to rock both levers 2I4, H5 and release the pressure of the springs upon the bearing blocks 204, thus releasing the pressure of the feed rollers on the fabric. This is desirable when the fabric is being first threaded through the machine. This device acts as an equalizer and applies the same amount of downward pressure to both ends of the roller. The same kind of device is provided for the upper I finishing roller 83 and the parts are designated by the same numerals.

When a seam 221 by which the ends of two pieces of fabric are joined approaches the bight of the finishing roller as shown in Fig. 1'7, the

10 seam, being thicker than the plain portion of the fabric, will as it enters the bight of these'rollers cause the upper finishing roller to be moved upwardly away from the lower roller or higher than when the smooth portion of the fabric is 18 passing through the bight. There is a lever 228 (Figs. 5 and 11) pivoted on the bracket 228 and it has a roller 238 on one end which is held pressed upwardly against the bearing block 284 of the upper roller 83 by the action of thespring "I N which has one end connected with the lever 228 and the other with the bracket. Asthe upper roller 83 is lifted by the action of the seam 221 the roller 238 follows the bearing block 284 and the lever 228 rocks the lever arm 233 through a 88 link 234 until the electrical contact member 235 carried by the lever arm 233 makes contact with the stationary contact member 238 of limit switch I38. The electric circuit controlled by these contacts includes any means such as the 30 electric control shown in Fig. 2, or the known Reeves drive, for reducing the speed of the various rollers of the machine down to a comparatively low speed but not to a dead stop. While the machine is running at low speed the fabric 86 is cut near or through the seam 221 and the shifting of the filled mandrel and the placing of the new one in position takes place. The ma chine may then be returned to fast speed by a suitable hand operated switch I38 closed, for

an instance, by the movement of the cutter at the end of the cutting stroke.

The shafts 231, 238 of the upper and lower propelling rollers have fixed thereon the gears II8, (Fi 5 which cause these rollers to revolve in unison. The shafts 2, 242 of the finishing rollers also have gears 243, 244 which mesh with each other and cause these rollers to revolve in unison. v i

The chain H8 is driven from any source of a power (such as motor 82 through worm gearing a an endless chain III, and the latter engages around a sprocket 38 fixed on the shaft 238 of the lower propeller roller. The power is thus transmitted from the shaft III to operate both propeller rollers 282, 283. In the form shown in Figs. 3 and 4, sprocket 38 is fixed on world shaft 368.

There is another sprocket 43 on the shaft III and this drives the endless chain I28 which also engages around the sprocket 232 on the shaft 238. Between the shut 238 and the shaft I8 which is driven from the former, there is change speed gearing I2I for altering the speed of the finishing rollers in relation to the propelling rollers to vary the longitudinal tension on the 70 fabric. The gear II on theshaft 238 drives the gear 81 on the shaft 88. The gear 88 on the shaft 88 in turn meshes with and drives the gear 248 on the shaft II. On the opposite end of the shaft II (as. shown in Fig. 5) there is a sprocket 248 around which engages the endless chain 241. The latter also engages around the sprocket 248 fixed on the shaft 242 of the lower Through the chain of gears 'wind-up roll may be relatively varied as desired to maintain the desired relative speeds and the tensions on the passing material. When these relative speeds have been set by proper choice of the changed speed gearing, the speed of the entire unit will vary with the speed of the single drive motor 82. The various devices are driven in any suitable manner. In the formshown herein, and illustrated diagrammatically in Fig. 2, the entire finisher is driven from a variable voltage direct current generator 32 driving variable speed direct current motor 82, the armature of which is connected to the generator armature through-leads H4 and I24. The field of motor 82 is connected through leads I33 and I34 to the field of generator 32 and a direct current exciter I35. Rheostat I28 varies the field of motor 82- to regulate automatically the speed of the final finishing operation according to the tension of the fabric as fed to the finisher. The speed of the entire apparatus is controlled through the main rheostat 84 in series with the field of generator 32 so that adjustment of this rheostat 84 will slow down or speed up the entire apparatus to give the desired rate of travel of the material while at the same time maintaining the properly and automatically adjusted relative speeds of each individual part. As explained herein, automatic means is provided for operating this rheostat 84 to slow'down the machine speed when a seam between two lengths of material passes through the finishing rolls 83.

The armature of motor 82 being connected in parallel with the generator armature, it will vary in speed as the generator voltage is varied. Consequently by providing a limit switch I38 to control the arm of rheostat 84 the closing of the switch will move the rheostat arm to automatical- 1y lower the generator voltage and correspondingly decrease the speed of the driving motor 82 from the normal speed to any desired lower speed. This limit switch I38 is arranged to be operated by the raising of the final ironing or finishing roll 83 so that as the seam between successive strips reaches these rolls the entire apparatus will automatically slow down to permit the opera- ,tor to separate the successive strips by cutting them apart and another limit switch I38 preferably engaged at the end of this cutting operation will act to return the arm of rheostat 84 to normal position to restore the motor speeds to normal. In Figs. 1 and 5 a cut oil device is indicated at 3III of the type for instance disclosed in U. 8. Letters Patent No. 1,745,476 of February 4, 1930, the device being adapted to operate along the cut ofi' bar 3. Upon the slowing down of the machine by the arrival of the seam between the final finishing rolls, the operator disconnects the drive for the wind-up roll 28 and moves this roll outward on its supporting bracket 288 and reareas places its mandrel I10 with another mandrel 2I0. In the meantime the slack in the material between the wind-up roll and the guide roll 06 accumulates and drops downward until finally it lies over the cutter bar 3| I, and when the seam between the strips is about to pass over this cutter bar, the operator moves the cutter 3I0 across the cutter bar to separate the strips along the line of the seam, then throwing the end of the following strip of fabric over the new mandrel 2I0 so that this will immediately begin to wind up the following strip.

In this way the continuity of the movement of the strips through the machine is preserved and there is no stoppage of the machine at any point of the operation; all moving surfaces are kept in relative motion and there is only a slight temporary slowing down of the mechanism just sufficient to provide for the cutting apart of the successive strips.

The operating functions of the entire machine thus provide for acceleration to a predetermined speed as set on the rheostat 94 of the generator feed and deceleration to a fixed low speed which is always the same. The operating speed range may be, for instance, three to forty-eight yards per minute.

The regulating arm of rheostat I25 is actuated from the feeler or dancer roll mechanism 65. This mechanism comprises a series of idler rolls I26 on a stationary frame and a second series of idler rolls I2! mounted on the pivoted arm I28- counterweighted at I29 and normally held toward the right by the adjustable weights I30. The material M prior to passing over roller 4 is looped around the idlers I26 and I2! in succession as shown so that there is a multiplication of the tension of the material on the arm I20 tending to tip the arm toward the left and lift the weight I which through sprockets and chain I3! controls the position of the contact arm of rheostat As the speeds of the preceding apparatus, such as the drier, and the finisher vary with relation to each other, the tension on the material will increase when the finisher is running too fast for the drier, and similarly will decrease when the speed of the finisher lags. The resultant variations in tension on the material between the finisher and the drier will tip the arm I28 to the left to lower the speed of the motor 92 and to the right to increase said speed. By proper adjustment of the idlers I26, I21 and weights I29, 130 the tension on the material between the drier and the finisher can be kept within very close limits and will regulate the speed of the finisher to follow variations in the rate of supply and to control variations occurring in the rate of feed through the finishing apparatus itself.

Where it is not desired to distend the fabric into an oval or circle, the device shown in Fig. 16 may be used for distending the fabric laterally and for propelling. This device may, therefore, replace the propelling device 9| shown in Fig. 5. The rollers 18, 99 arranged one above the other in parallel relation. are separated enough to allow the bow TI to pass through the bight of these rollers. This bow is connected to a cross bar I9 which is too large to pass between the rollers 10, 89. The wireforming the how 11 passes through the bar 19 and projects on the opposite side in the form of two arms I02. 'Ihe tubular fabric is passed entirely over the spreader consisting of the cross bar I9, the bow I1 and the arms I02, and the bow is passed between the rollers ll, 09 so that the bar 19 lies adjacent these rollers as shown in Fig. 16. As these two rollers are propelled, they act on the fabric against the bar I9 topropel it.

The fabric passes onto the bow I1 and over the complete spreader which holds it in the form of a flattened tube while passing over the primary and secondary steaming device.

Operation The fabric is threaded through the machine by the previous strip or by attaching a. dummy piece to the leading end of the tubular fabric which is to be treated. The fabric (or the dummy piece) will extend over the roller 4 thence horizontally through the first steaming device 00, thence over the spreader and between the latter and the propelling rollers, thence through the second steaming device 82, thence between the finishing rollers and over the roller 86. If a dummy piece is attached to the fabric to be treated then when the rear end of the dummy appears beyond the finishing rollers it is cut from the regular fabric and the leading end of the latter is directed onto the mandrel.

' The levers 225 may be thrown down while the fabric is being threaded into the machine to raise the propelling and finishing rollers and then the levers 226 are released to allow these rollers to be pressed down by their springs.

The machine may now be set into operation and steam is fed through the pipes I95, I99 to be distributed through the steaming devices. In the form shown in Figs. 1, 2 and -12, in which a primary steaming device such as 80 is employed in the machine the fabric, while passing as a flattened tube over the bowed member 205 in a horizontal plane, is subjected to a current of steam projected from the tubes I82 against the under side or the lower layer of the fabric. At the same time, steam from the upper tubes I90 is projected downwardly against the upper layer of fabric, so that both layers may be subjected at the same time to the steam action.

After leaving the first steaming device, the fabric travels over the spreader 8! which opens the fabric up to oval or circularshape, thus distending it and removing wrinkles and separating the layers. The fabric is propelled at the spreader by the rollers 202, 203. The fabric then passes onto the wire 206 and gradually returns to the form of a flattened tube. It then passes in this form over the wire 200 and through the second steaming device 82 where it is again subjected to the flow of steam from above and below against both layers thereof. After passing through the second steaming device and over the wire 206 as a flattened tube, it passes between the finishing rollers and thence over the cooling device 310 onto the wind-up device.

The arrangement disclosed in Figs. 3 and e operates in similar manner. The primary steaming, where employed, includes the application of steam to the fabric on spreader 356 in a manner adequate to steam the entire fabric, which is then cooled by air from the adjacent, nozzle 355 preferably prior to substantial transverse distention of the fabric on propeller shoes 35'! The fabric is similarly steamed and cooled by steam from the second steam tube 35I and air nozzle 355 while in substantially fiat condition on the spreader wires 301, passing to the finishing rolls 03 which operate in the manner already set forth.

If through the selection of the correct intermediate gears 81, I! the finishing rollers are operated at slightly slower surface speed than the propelling rollers then a definite and controlled longitudinal tension will be exerted on the fabric and allowance made for shrinkage; and this tension will be uniform with any given speed 'ratio between the propelling and finishing rollers. If a fabric of different character is to be run through the machine .it may be necessary to change the intermediate gears 81, 89 to vary the speed ratio between the finishing and propelling rollers.

When the fabric has passed through the machine all wrinkles will have been removed, the width of the fabric will be uniform, there will be a definite, controlled and uniform number of yards of fabric per pound, the upper and lower layers of the tube will be uniform and the wales of the fabric will be uniform around the tube.

We claim:

1. Apparatus for treating traveling tubular textile fabric comprising means for flattening the tube in one direction, means for distending the tube in another direction and propelling the tube while distended, means for steaming the tube while in flattened condition, and finishing rollers for pressing the steamed tube. I

2. Apparatus for treating traveling tubular textile fabric comprising means for flattening the tube in one direction, means for distending the tube in another direction and propelling the tube whiledistended, means for steaming and thereafter cooling the tube while in flattened condition, and finishing rollers for pressing the steamed tube.

3. Apparatus for treating traveling tubular textile fabric comprising means for flattening the tube in one direction,. means for steaming the flattened tube, means for distending the tube in another direction and propelling the tube while distended, means for again flattening the tube, second steaming means for steaming the flattened tube operative after such distention, and finishing rollers for pressing the steamed flattened tube.

4. Apparatus for treating traveling tubular textile fabric comprising means for flattening the fabric in one direction, means for distending the fabric in another direction, propelling means engaging restricted zones" of the fabric, means for simultaneously steaming contiguous portions of theupper and lower plies of the flattened fabric,

and heated rolls for pressing the steamed fabric.

5. Apparatus for treating traveling tubular textile fabric comprising means for. distending the fabric and for propelling it, and means arranged above and adjacent the plane of travel of the fabric, including tubes having discharge openings arranged to permit steam to be discharged toward the plane of the fabric, and dams surrounding said openings arranged to permit steam to pass through the openings and to prevent condensed liquid from passing therethrough.

6. Apparatus for treating traveling tubular textile fabric comprising means for flattening the fabric in one direction, means for distending the fabric in another direction and propelling the fabric while distended, steaming means provided with an outlet arranged to direct steam against aply of the flattened fabric, means for diverting condensate from said outlet and means for collecting and removing thecondensate.

7. Apparatus for treating traveling tubular textile fabric comprising means for distending the fabric, means for propelling the fabric, means areas acting to the rear of ma propelling means to apply steam to the moving fabric, finishing rollers between which the fabric travels in flattened form subsequently to the steaming device, and means for operating said propelling means and said finishing rollers including a chain gear device for altering therelative speeds of said propelling means and said finishing rollers.

8. Apparatus for treating traveling tubular textile fabric comprising means for distending and propelling the fabric, means for steaming the fabric, fabric finishing rollers, means for driving said propelling means and rollers and means for varying the speed of such drive in conformity with the rate of initial feed of the fabric.

9. Apparatus for treating traveling tubular textile fabric comprising means for distending and steaming the fabric, a plurality of fabric propelling devices engaging the fabric at longitudinally spaced points, means for driving said devices at different speeds having a predetermined ratio arranged to maintain a selected fabric tension between such points, and means for varying the speed'of said driving means in accordance with'the rate of the initial feed of the fabric while maintaining said speed ratio between the propelling devices.

10. Apparatus for treating traveling tubular textile fabric comprising means for distending and steaming the fabric, means for propelling the fabric in distended condition, finishing rolls for pressing the fabric, means for winding the fabric and drive means for operating the propelling means, finishing rolls and winding means at selected and variable relative speeds arranged to maintain predetermined longitudinal tension on the fabric.

11. Apparatus for treating traveling tubular textile fabric comprising means for flattening the fabric in one direction, means for distending the fabric in another direction, means for propelling the fabric in flattened condition, finishing rolls for pressing the fabric, means for steaming the fabric and means for maintaining the fabric under longitudinal tension during steaming.

12. Apparatus for treating traveling tubular textile fabric comprisingmeans for flattening the fabric in one direction, means for distending the fabric in another direction, means for propelling the fabric in flattened condition, finishing rolls for pressing the fabric, means for the fabric located between the propelling means and the finishing rolls, and means formain taining the fabric underlongitudinal tension during steaming.

13. Apparatus for treating traveling tubular textile fabric comprising means for distending the fabric, finishing rolls for pressing the fabric,

, means for steaming the fabric in advance of the finishing rolls and means in advance of the steaming means for propelling excess of the peripheral speed of the finishing rolls arranged to compensate for shrinkage of the fabric during steaming.

14.-Apparatus for treating traveling tubular textile fabric comprising a pair of opposed transverse fabric propelling rolls, a fabric spreader extending between the rolls, a transverse retain-- ing member on the spreader normally located in the nip of the rolls, and means for steaming the fabric on the spreader.

15. The method of finishing tubular fabric, which includes spreading the fabric in flattened form under lateral tension points, propelling the fabric between the points steaming at a plurality of the fabric at a rate in at which it is distended in flattened form. applyingsteamtothefabricattheseveralpoints where it is in flattened form and passing the fabric'in flattened form between finishing rollers under regulated longitudinal tension.

id. The method of finishing tubular fabric, which consists in distending a moving tubular fabric into flat form and subjecting the fabric where it is in flattened form, to the action of steam, distending the fabric in tubular form after it passs said steaming device again distendinl the fabric in the flattened form after being opened to the tubular form, applying steam to'tfie fabric where it is reduced to the tubular form for the second time, applying longitudinal tension to said fabric where it is subjected to the action of the steam.

1'7. The method of finishing tubular fabric,

which includes distending the fabric in flattened form. applying .jpropelling action to said fabric simultaneously at different points along the fabric and at relatively different linear speeds to maintain a uniform and regulated longitudinal tension of the fabric, applying steam to the flattened portion of the fabric, and subsequently subjecting the fabric to the action of finishing rollers.

18. The method of treating fabric which consists in moving the fabric in a horizontal plane, distending the fabric in flattened form, directing from above the plane of the fabric downwardly upon the-traveling fabric a flow of steam, trapping liquid condensate within said discharging means, and draining the condensate therefrom outside the path of travel of the fabric to prevent condensed liquid from reaching the fabric.

19. The method of treating textile fabric which consists in moving the fabric horizontally, distending the fabric in flattened form, discharging steam from a holding means arranged above the plane of the fabric by taking the steam from the upper portion of said holding means and directing it downwardly on the upper surface of the moving fabric and trapping any liquid condensate in the bottom portion of said steam holding means.

20. The method of finishing tubular textile fabric which consists in distending tubular fabric in flat form and while so distended applying steam to the fabric from above and below its plans of travel, thence opening or spreading tubular fabric, thence converging the fabric into flat distended form again and while in the latter form applying steam to opposite sides or the fabric from above and below its plane of travel, and thence passing the tubular fabric in flattened form between finishing rollers.

21. The method of treating traveling tubular textile fabric comprising distending and flattening the fabric to a predetermined width, steaming the fabric in flattened condition, propelling the fabric in a zone spaced from said steaming, pressing the steamed fabric, winding the pressed fabric and maintaining a selected longitudinal tension on the fabric between the propelling and winding points, the width of the distended and flattened fabric being appropriately correlated to the narrowing effect of said tension to produce a fabric of accurately predetermined width at the point of winding.

SAMUEL COHN. JULES G. WALTER. 

